May 09, 2003  |  By: AARON MILLE  | COMMENTS     

FIN MIGHT SOUND like the end of a depressing Swedish movie. But in Dupont Circle it's the name of a refurbished seafood staple, the Georgetown Seafood Grill. The new name has more punch, and the décor and menu do as well.

Fin has among the best oyster and clam selections in Washington, D.C. If there are only two of you, the Raw Bar Sampler will give you just enough to whet your appetite and introduce you to what this new place has to offer. The oysters come from British Columbia, Rhode Island, Long Island and, of course, Maryland.

The restaurant also offers cocktails served in fish bowls, and drinks with snappy names like the Fin-tini and Sake margarita.

Fin has an abundance of other surprises. If you're strolling by, just two blocks south of the Dupont Circle Metro, between M and N streets, its décor might startle. It stands out as a bit more vibrant and playful than the straightlaced steak houses that litter this upper corner of the so-called Golden Triangle.

The restaurant's interior is equally interesting. Growing up in Florida, you can get used to the tacky décor that passes for classy in some seafood restaurant. The motto there seems to be: If it comes out of the ocean it's worth hanging on a wall. But not so at Fin.

Fin dresses its appearance up with Asian-inspired clean lines while retaining some subtle oceanic touches: an aquarium, round lights resembling portals, and a Warhol-esque print of the sea.

With an ample bar, booths abounding, a patio, and a lounge, the space practically begs for a meeting with some close drinking buddies.

LIKE OLD-SCHOOL SEAFOOD restaurants in this region, such as Crisfield's, Fin's menu is extensive. There's a huge selection from appetizers, including Nigiri-style sushi, to entrees such as monkfish with tarragon and pink peppercorn compound butter. There's also a delightful assortment of "small plates," that include pan-poached mussels and baked Chincoteague oysters stuffed with arugula and creamed spinach and topped with Brie and pumpkin seeds. The scallops with seaweed salad are very good places to start.

Entrees also offer the discriminating diner a wide array of choices. The whole Maine lobster is wonderful and reasonably priced. The chef's creations include shrimp and grits with spicy Tasso ham as well as fried fish and chips, beer-batted and served with garlic and herb fries.

The pan-roasted diver sea scallops and seashells with Asia go cheese and shallots in a citrus pan jus was less impressive. It tasted like something someone who doesn't cook much might try to make at home.

The good news is Fin offers a number of fresh fish — from yellowfin tuna and Atlantic salmon to mahi mahi and lemon sole — that can be prepared according to each customer's unique demands. They come with side dishes such as jasmine and peanut rice pilaf and braised Napa cabbage.

Unfortunately, Fin's desserts are a bit over the top. The banana crème pie, which is served in a very nice flaky pastry cone, is a bit too heavy near the bottom. The peanut butter and Oreo cookie pie doesn't wander too far for more mainstream palates, and definitely has a home-style appeal.

If Fin works out its minor kinks and continues to offer smart service and simple, tasty delicacies, it's hard to see a catastrophe taking place here.

Appetizers range from $5 to $13, entrees from $12 to $25, and desserts are $8.