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By: AARON FLYNN COMMENTS
 
I HAVE WATCHED THE TRANSFORMATION of the space at 2030 M St. time and time again.
The space has been home to three different restaurants in as many years, which
is surprising considering the dozen hotels in the area, including one directly
across the street. You’d think there would be an unending flow of uninformed
and hungry tourists just waiting to be lured in by a conveniently located bistro.
As the most recent renovations got under way, I fully expected another uninspired
restaurant to be unveiled. I was wrong.
Restau-Lounge is the brainchild of two D.C. chef-celebrities. The men behind
Trumpets and the wildly popular Gabriel have teamed up (as the David-Greggory
in the name indicates) to provide the neighborhood with what’s sure to
be a new dining staple. The remodeled space has a California contemporary feel
(but in a good way) mixed with a slightly bohemian, artsy sensibility.
In fact, there’s almost as much emphasis on art and style as there is
on food and wine. The waiters, for example, wear uniforms created specifically
for the restaurant by well-known designer Ted Baker. Also, each menu is different
and serves as the frame for an individual lithograph. These touches, the amber
lighting, and the location all make this the perfect spot for a late dinner
after a night at the theater or a round of drinks with friends after a long
day at the office. With all this style, I have to wonder why they settled on
the name Restau-Lounge. It sounds like a rest stop on the New Jersey Turnpike.
Restau-Lounge features abundant appetizers along with a less extensive tapas
menu. I savored the grilled Moroccan shrimp, which came in a tangy Harissa
remoulade, which is code for “incredibly high in calories.” Still,
it was worth the health risk. A more healthful option that was nearly as good
was the Iroquois corn cake, which was resembled a miniature casserole more
than a cake. It was cool and sweet with combinations of avocado, roasted corn
and tomato and makes a great choice in the summer heat.
The spring rabbit cassoulet (never mind that it’s July) built on the
success of the appetizers. There was none of the proverbial greasiness you
typically get with rabbit and the light vegetables, including fava beans, pearl
onions, and carrots were sweetly accented with a hint of citrus. The dish is
filling yet refreshing — a pleasant surprise for a heavy stew. The grilled
salmon was less exciting, but good nonetheless. It comes with the obligatory
dill cream sauce and a rather bland side of Basmati rice. More enticing by
far was the side of curried spinach.
Desserts are cleverly divided into “chocolate” and “not
chocolate” categories. The S’more in Greek’s Clothing — filo
pastry surrounding rich soft chocolate and drizzled with marshmallow sauce — is
excruciatingly sweet. The white chocolate and coconut layer cake was a little
lighter and just as tasty. With an ample wine selection, you won’t go
wrong making Restau-Lounge your next stop for a satisfying lunch or dinner.
Appetizers range from $6 to $10. Entrees range from $18 to $28, with several
half portions available for $9. Desserts are $8. Restau-Lounge is open for
dinner nightly and has a weekday lunch menu, a late night menu, and is open
for Sunday brunch.
Restau-Lounge
2030 M St., NW
202-872-8700
Food: 
Service:
Comfort & Aesthetics:
Value:
Scene:
0 = Stay home and eat cereal
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Well, if you really must
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Fine for all but the finnicky
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Worth more than a 20-minute drive
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As good as you’ll find in this city
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