Jul 04, 2003  |  By: Aaron Flynn  | COMMENTS     

I had some idea of what to expect of Saki, Adams Morgan’s newest nightclub/restaurant hybrid. All of my hippest friends were already raving. That meant it had to look like something out of Blade Runner, be filled with young, beautiful people, and serve food as stylish as its interior design. Some part of me hates that sort of place — what with all the usual snobbery — so I was more than prepared to be irritated by the slightest thing done wrong.

As it turns out, even with its carefully constructed coolness oozing from every corner, I found myself having quite a good time.

First, I’m always wary of bars that also just happen to serve food; it usually turns out that the meals are only meant as padding for the stomachs of heavy drinkers. And, to tell the truth, I wasn’t sure just how well raw fish would go over in a loud, smoky bar. But Saki has some of the freshest ingredients I’ve yet to encounter in D.C.-area sushi bars and, more often than not, gets things just right.

Saki does have a relatively short menu, especially by sushi bar standards. You won’t find the ubiquitous little pencil and checklist — that would be gauche. But while the choices are few, I found it difficult to come up with anything I didn’t like.

The seaweed salad was spicier than I’m used to but good nonetheless. What really surprised me — and became a hit at my table — was the crab and avocado salad, which comes in a light creamy dressing. Now that it’s officially hot and miserable outside, it gets high marks as one of the most light, cool, and refreshing appetizers one can find in D.C.

The sushi and sashimi are also excellent. Particularly good among the assortment I selected was the Dragon roll, Saki’s euphemism for eel. The roll was topped with thin layers of avocado slices, which did, admittedly, lend a dragon-scale look to the pieces. You’ll of course find the ever-present California roll and other typical favorites. Peppered among them, however, you will come across some more unusual fare, like the spicy Hawaiian roll and several pieces centered on toro, which is a part of the tuna.

If you’re not particularly turned on by the raw fish options, Saki has an equally impressive grill at work. The weakest of the bunch was probably the garlic shrimp. Despite the ton of garlic I could see in the dish, somehow, most of its flavor had miraculously avoided getting into the shrimp themselves. On the other hand, I couldn’t have been more pleased with the lamb chops. So often, lamb gets poor treatment in local restaurants. The simple marinade and spot-on temperature left the meat tender and flavorful.

The plate even drew jealous stares from the people at the next table.

Another favorite were the shrimp dumplings. Again, thwarting my expectations, there wasn’t a wanton in sight. Instead they came in the form of light and airy puff pastries and had a delicious dipping sauce. None of these items were really large enough to serve as a complete entrée, but they are perfect for a tapas-like experience with a group of friends.

Desserts are perhaps more unique than anything else on the menu. I know chocolate cake doesn’t sound all that inspired but topped with a rich ganache and raspberries, this dessert definitely outstrips the competition. For something a little lighter, the tropical fruit fondue is sweet and still manages to leave you with that sense of moral superiority that eating health food generates. Or you could toss back a few cocktails and dance until three in the morning. Either way, chances are you’ll enjoy yourself.

Appetizers range from $5 to $7; grill items/entrees $8 to $15 and desserts $4 to $12.

trong>Saki
2477 18th Street, NW
202-232-5005

Food: ‰‰‰
Service: ‰‰‰‰
Comfort & Aesthetics: ‰‰‰‰‰
Value: ‰‰‰
Scene: ‰‰‰
æ = Stay home and eat cereal
‰‰ = Well, if you really must
‰‰‰ = Fine for all but the finnicky
‰‰‰‰ =Worth more than a 20-minute drive
‰‰‰‰‰ =As good as you’ll find in this city