A
PURELY
AMERICAN
style
of
music,
jazz
is
based
on
experimentation,
collaboration
and
hybridization
involving
different
types
of
music.
Just
like
the
country
itself,
it
takes
a
number
of
different
influences
and
cultures
and
blends
them
into
a
cohesive
and
unique
whole.
The
same
could
be
said
about
D.C.’s
U
Street
neighborhood,
as
its
revitalization
boon
chugs
along.
The
area
formerly
known
as
“Black
Broadway”
is
now
home
to
everything
from
upscale
apartment
buildings
and
jazz
clubs
to
Ethiopian
lounges
and
stylish
boutiques.
It
truly
mirrors
the
city’s
diversity.
The
neighborhood’s
newest
addition,
Duke’s
City
—
named
after
hometown
jazz
great
Duke
Ellington
—
tries
to
reflect
that
diversity.
Donato
Spinaci
opened
the
restaurant
in
October,
and
since
then
has
been
offering
a
mélange
of
Italian,
Middle
Eastern,
traditional
American
and
soul
food
in
what
strives
to
be
a
high-end
environment.
Unlike
the
jazz
great
in
the
restaurant’s
name,
however,
there
is
no
harmony
between
the
different
menu
options.
Instead
of
combining
these
elements
in
fusion
cuisine,
Duke’s
City
chooses
to
present
them
all
at
once.
It’s
like
five
bands
playing
different
songs
at
the
same
time.
The
result
isn’t
a
unique
blend,
but
a
muddled
mess.
FROM
AN
AESTHETIC
standpoint,
Duke’s
City
is
very
much
like
a
catalogue
model
—
handsome,
clean
and
nice
to
look
at,
but
not
exceptionally
memorable.
Attractive
wooden
tables
are
set
with
matching
chairs,
though
the
style
doesn’t
really
make
up
for
their
lack
of
comfort.
Others
are
lined
against
a
cozy
banquette
along
one
wall.
On
a
recent
Monday
night,
there
weren’t
many
diners
at
Duke’s,
and
the
dim,
ambient
lighting
made
the
place
seem
a
little
sad.
Scanning
the
menu,
I
looked
for
something
different,
a
signature
dish
of
some
sort.
What
I
found
instead
were
appetizers
and
entrees
that
countless
other
restaurants
also
serve.
For
appetizers,
there’s
hummus,
fried
calamari,
buffalo
wings,
spinach
artichoke
dip,
etc.
The
sautéed
mussels
were
actually
quite
good,
and
a
standout
on
a
menu
of
comfort
foods.
But
my
dining
companion’s
spinach
artichoke
dip
was
just
adequate.
Duke’s
City
also
offers
several
pasta
choices,
including
chicken
pesto
penne,
and
a
number
of
burgers
and
sandwiches.
This
seems
like
an
odd
choice
for
the
restaurant,
which,
from
the
gussied-up
interior,
appears
to
be
striving
to
be
something
more.
Nevertheless,
if
you
want
a
club,
crab
cake,
Reuben,
chicken
breast
or
any
other
type
of
sandwich,
Duke’s
City
is
another
place
on
U
Street
to
visit.
OUR
ENTREES
CAME
a
little
too
soon
after
the
appetizers,
a
move
that
made
the
generous
portions
seem
even
more
daunting.
The
size
of
my
two
healthy
chicken
kebobs
didn’t
make
up
for
their
lack
of
taste,
however.
Bits
of
grilled
chicken,
seemingly
un-marinated
and
lacking
spice,
slapped
on
a
spit
with
peppers
and
onions,
does
not
a
good
kebob
make.
The
ahi
tuna
steak
was
well
cooked
and
tasty,
but
not
worth
ordering
again.
Duke’s
biggest
sin
is
that
it
is
pandering
to
the
lowest-common
denominator.
Everyone
will
walk
into
the
place
and
find
something
on
the
menu
that
they
like
—
maybe
even
a
few
things.
But
it’s
not
going
to
be
anything
very
interesting.
Appetizers
range
from
$4.95
to
$8.95;
sandwiches
from
$4.95
to
$10.95;
and
entrees
from
$11.95
to
$17.95.
