Mar 11, 2005  |  By: BRIAN MOYLAN  | COMMENTS     

A PURELY AMERICAN style of music, jazz is based on experimentation, collaboration and hybridization involving different types of music. Just like the country itself, it takes a number of different influences and cultures and blends them into a cohesive and unique whole.

The same could be said about D.C.’s U Street neighborhood, as its revitalization boon chugs along. The area formerly known as “Black Broadway” is now home to everything from upscale apartment buildings and jazz clubs to Ethiopian lounges and stylish boutiques. It truly mirrors the city’s diversity.

The neighborhood’s newest addition, Duke’s City — named after hometown jazz great Duke Ellington — tries to reflect that diversity. Donato Spinaci opened the restaurant in October, and since then has been offering a mélange of Italian, Middle Eastern, traditional American and soul food in what strives to be a high-end environment.

Unlike the jazz great in the restaurant’s name, however, there is no harmony between the different menu options. Instead of combining these elements in fusion cuisine, Duke’s City chooses to present them all at once.

It’s like five bands playing different songs at the same time. The result isn’t a unique blend, but a muddled mess.

FROM AN AESTHETIC standpoint, Duke’s City is very much like a catalogue model — handsome, clean and nice to look at, but not exceptionally memorable.

Attractive wooden tables are set with matching chairs, though the style doesn’t really make up for their lack of comfort. Others are lined against a cozy banquette along one wall.

On a recent Monday night, there weren’t many diners at Duke’s, and the dim, ambient lighting made the place seem a little sad.

Scanning the menu, I looked for something different, a signature dish of some sort. What I found instead were appetizers and entrees that countless other restaurants also serve.

For appetizers, there’s hummus, fried calamari, buffalo wings, spinach artichoke dip, etc. The sautéed mussels were actually quite good, and a standout on a menu of comfort foods. But my dining companion’s spinach artichoke dip was just adequate.

Duke’s City also offers several pasta choices, including chicken pesto penne, and a number of burgers and sandwiches. This seems like an odd choice for the restaurant, which, from the gussied-up interior, appears to be striving to be something more.

Nevertheless, if you want a club, crab cake, Reuben, chicken breast or any other type of sandwich, Duke’s City is another place on U Street to visit.

OUR ENTREES CAME a little too soon after the appetizers, a move that made the generous portions seem even more daunting.

The size of my two healthy chicken kebobs didn’t make up for their lack of taste, however. Bits of grilled chicken, seemingly un-marinated and lacking spice, slapped on a spit with peppers and onions, does not a good kebob make.

The ahi tuna steak was well cooked and tasty, but not worth ordering again.

Duke’s biggest sin is that it is pandering to the lowest-common denominator. Everyone will walk into the place and find something on the menu that they like — maybe even a few things. But it’s not going to be anything very interesting.

Appetizers range from $4.95 to $8.95; sandwiches from $4.95 to $10.95; and entrees from $11.95 to $17.95.