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REBECCA L. WEBER
Friday, April 01, 2005
MY FAVORITE WAY to spend two bucks these days is on one of the many mini-appetizers at Tallula’s in Arlington, Va. And I’m not alone. If you want to show up and eat right away, best to come early in the week, when you’ll have a good chance of being seated quickly. Otherwise, be prepared to spend some time hanging out in the bar area, because the crowds form early from Wednesday on, and reservations are only available for larger parties.
After passing through a series of opaque curtains, Tallula’s main dining room features a centrally located bubbling water fountain, guaranteed to soothe those who sit within earshot. Tall maroon booths shelter couples; mosaic tiles and stones create an environment of ease with natural materials.
An outpost of Planet Wine, a retail wine establishment, is connected to Tallula’s. The collection of more than 350 bottles, 65 of which can be enjoyed by the glass, has just been updated for warmer weather. And the large curved, wooden display of the bottles between the shop and the restaurant is itself a design feature.
AT TALLULA’S, THE menu playfully invites you to “Amuse Yourself” with tiny portions of tasty items whose diminutive size make them a bit more fun to eat. At just a couple of bucks a pop, it’s hard not to try a few.
If you’re the type to ever secretly desire dessert as a starter, the crispy corn beignet offers an excellent opportunity to indulge and still look as if you’re eating a proper meal. This corn custard, served with slivers of pickled red onions, is sweet and rich, yet small enough to allow you to amuse yourself further.
The delicate, petite flatbread with fontina cheese and pureed peas also is a good choice. My dining companion especially enjoyed the baby burger, which takes its cue from White Castle.
There are more ample appetizers at Tallula’s, such as surprisingly mild arugula salad with fried cheese, but they are not nearly as much fun. Chef Nathan Anda, who also has worked at Equinox and Market Salamander, is in charge of the kitchen.
For dinner on a recent evening, I enjoyed the house-made ricotta gnocchi, served around a dense mixture of forest mushrooms and corn kernels. My companion was even more pleased with the seared red snapper, served with purple potato galette and the haricots verts of early spring.
Having already amused ourselves, and wanting to sample the desserts as well, we both found ourselves with upscale doggie bags.
FRUITS HAVE STRONG supporting roles in Tallula’s desserts. A generous serving of fresh chopped mango accompanies the mango spice cake. And passion fruit gives a mousse bomb more kick to the explosion of chocolate delight than you’d otherwise expect.
The service is equally appealing at Tallula’s. Our server skillfully demonstrated a light touch throughout the meal, but whenever we asked a question, she engaged us with a thorough knowledge of and enthusiasm for the offerings.
Although the Arlington restaurant is not in my neighborhood, I’m sure to return on a Sunday or Monday night, when there are enough regulars to give the place some energy, but not so much demand that the wait for a table raises expectations and appetites beyond what can be delivered.
Amuse yourself from $2 to $3; appetizers from $6 to $15; entrees from $15 to $26; and desserts $6.75.
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