Jul 29, 2005  |  By: REBECCA L. WEBE  | COMMENTS     

GREAT SAGE MAKES what it calls “global green cuisine,” which works out to an eclectic vegetarian menu (with emphasis on organic foods), with nods to domestic culinary destinations such as California and the Southwest, as well as Thailand and Spain.

Entrees fall into two main categories: the type of vegetarian entrees typically offered at omnivorous restaurants, such as a spinach and cheese quesadilla or Kung Pao tofu with Szechwan noodles; and mock-meat versions of traditional fare, such as a club sandwich with vegan “turkey,” “bacon,” and “mayonnaise.”

While some vegetarians may like to reminisce with these recreations, and omnivores may feel more comfortable ordering something that sounds like it has meat, Great Sage generally does a better job when it creates dishes that celebrate the ingredients actually used rather than trying to imitate items that aren’t present.

To start, try the Great Sage Sampler, a trio of purees served with toasted crostini. Although it’s as gray and dull-looking as if it were made from liver, the mushroom-walnut pate is a subtle, earthy delight. It’s accompanied by the vivid magenta of roasted beet paté and a striking spiced carrot puree.

The Americana is dubbed a house specialty, but this vegan lentil “meatloaf” with a gelatinous topping was overly sweet. But the simple lemon-garlic broccoli that it’s served with is bright, crunchy, and just about perfect.

The Portobello flat bread sandwich was better than most, featuring juicy mushrooms with an anchovy-free Caesar dressing. A children’s menu (for the “Little Sage”) offers easy choices like “chicken” fingers with ketchup and organic PB&J.

A JUICE BARRISTA whips up fresh smoothies that are nutritional powerhouses, such as the Maple Walnut, with bananas, walnuts, maple syrup and soymilk, or that are lighter, pure cooling refreshments, such as the Starburst, with strawberries, bananas, kiwis and apple juice. Bottled soda flavors include Cherry Ginger Brew and Green Tea Raspberry.

Most impressive is the wine and beer list, with organic wines available by the bottle or glass, and a dozen organic or all-natural beers.

Great Sage is far ahead of most restaurants in terms of anticipating potential food sensitivities or restrictions. If you or one of your dining companions is vegan, or requires meals that are scrupulously gluten-, soy-, or peanut-free, the kitchen will gladly accommodate your needs.

Unfortunately, the 30-mile trip from the District to Clarkesville, Md., requires burning some fossil fuel. But it’s worth the drive.

Great Sage is part of a cluster of eco-friendly businesses in a mini-mall that are dubbed the “Conscious Corner.” Proprietors include Roots, an independent health food store that claims to have the largest all-organic produce department in the Washington, D.C.-Baltimore region; Bark, an all-natural pet supply shop; and Nest (that’s for Natural Elements Selected Thoughtfully), a groovy gift shop with hemp clothing, bamboo bowls, and water fountains to hang in lieu of a plasma television.

This isn’t Greens in San Francisco, but the warm vibe, casually elegant surroundings, and commitment to sustainable agriculture are a significant and welcome addition to the area’s animal-friendly dining options.