Aug 19, 2005  |  By: TROY PETENBRINK  | COMMENTS     

THERE IS NO need to bury the headline here – Hank’s Oyster Bar is an excellent and much needed addition to the 17th Street dining scene.

Sure, there may be a few folks who continue to shed a tear or two for the old Trio’s pizzeria that previously occupied the small space on Q Street, NW, just east of 17th, that now houses Hank’s, but time (and a good piece of fresh fish) heals all wounds.

After a brief, headline-making skirmish with some local residents over hours of operation and outside seating, chef Jamie Leeds joins the ranks of other lesbian chefs, such as Colorado Kitchen’s Gillian Chark, to strike out on their own after years of mastering their crafts in someone else’s establishments. Prior to starting Hank’s, named for her late father, Leeds garnered a number of local fans while working at 15 ria in the Washington Terrace Hotel.

The menu at Hank’s, which changes fairly often, is small but attractive, mirroring the restaurant’s space that only allows seating for about 60 people inside and another couple dozen outside.

The oysters from the ever-changing selection are sold individually ($2 apiece on the half shell) and the wait staff is skilled in describing the day’s options. Other flavorful items from the restaurant’s ice bar include sake oyster shooters and spicy individual jumbo shrimp cocktails.

DURING A RECENT visit, the small plate options, ranging in price from $6 to $11, included such scrumptious items as lobster bisque, griddled squid, crab cake and a wonderful combo dish of popcorn shrimp and calamari. The tender fried oysters, however, were simply the stars of this act.

Among the large plate options, priced $11 to $17, were traditional fish n’ chips, seafood pasta, seared scallops and plump lobster roll. A few of these dishes could have benefited from some additional seasoning.

The fish menu usually includes three to four market choices. These dishes are a mix of big hits and slight misses. The marinated sablefish with sesame-balsamic glaze on a bed of watercress greens was bitter and simply unpleasant. The sauteed soft shell crabs, dressed in a simple citrus butter sauce, were easily the best the city has to offer.

Those that prefer their food from land might find the menu slightly disappointing. There was the caesar salad, market veggie plate, a burger and a daily meat special (Monday night’s braised short ribs are a popular draw) but otherwise Leeds stays true to her aquatic options.

Besides the daily meat special that come with two choices, sides ($4 each) are sold seperately and are generous enough to be shared. The buttermilk battered onion rings and smoked flavored mac and cheesy were two very tasty complements. And if you have not fallen prey to the anti-carb hysteria, it’s worth asking for a basket of the wonderful sourdough bread.

Patrons should be prepared for a communal experience, as tables are situated very close together and it can sometimes feel as if your conversation is lost among the other diners. The lack of space has also resulted in no room for any desserts, an issue that

Leeds might want to try and address in the near future.

Hank’s is open for dinner every night, except Tuesdays, beginning at 5:30 p.m., and offers brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekends.