IT’S
EARLY
EVENING,
and
from
the
outside,
W
Domku
looks
more
like
a
trendy
second-hand
furniture
shop
than
a
bar
and
café.
Nestled
between
worn
facades
on
a
commercial
block
in
Petworth,
in
Northwest
D.C.,
the
converted
storefront
is
crammed
with
groupings
of
mismatched
furniture.
Through
the
window,
it
appears
customers
are
testing
out
the
mid-century
low
couches
and
mod
dinette
sets.
Once
inside
the
airy,
high-ceiling
space,
it’s
clear
that
the
far-off
counter
is
a
bar
and
the
sparse
crowd
is
actually
settling
in
for
drinks
or,
maybe,
awaiting
friends
for
dinner.
As
the
evening
passes,
the
Old
World
crystal
chandeliers
dim
and
the
café
fills.
W
Domku
(which
means
“in
the
little
house”
in
Polish)
is
a
new
meeting
place
in
a
changing
neighborhood.
Kera
Carpenter,
a
former
Peace
Corps
volunteer
in
Poland,
opened
it
six
months
ago.
The
café
features
a
mélange
of
Eastern
European
and
Scandinavian
cuisine.
Drinkers
may
want
to
begin
with
a
chilled
shot
of
house-infused
aquavit.
The
clear
Vodka-tasting
liquor
comes
in
a
selection
of
flavors,
including
tangerine,
red
chili
pepper
and
caraway.
The
daring
might
try
a
flight
of
three
flavors
available
for
$16.
THE
CAFÉ
MENU
features
everything
from
light
fare
to
the
makings
of
a
three-course
meal.
With
each
dish,
careful
attention
is
paid
to
detail
and
presentation.
Varied
starters
include
a
bowl
of
traditional,
thick
beet
soup,
Cognac
and
pistachio
paté
served
with
farm
rye
bread,
and
delicious
smoked
Baltic
sprats
in
oil
and
rye
crisp
bread.
As
an
entrée,
I
chose
beef
tenderloin
with
tomato
hollandaise
sauce.
Tasty
and
very
tender,
the
beef
was
served
with
fingerling
potatoes,
French
beans,
tomato,
onion
confit,
and
parsley.
At
around
$17,
it’s
one
of
the
most
expensive
dishes
on
the
menu.
My
dining
partner
selected
the
mussels
in
aquavit
and
cream.
She
was
pleased
with
the
shellfish
—
served
fresh
and
generously
in
a
large
white,
ceramic
bowl
—
but
a
bit
overwhelmed
by
the
sauce,
which
overwhelmed
the
taste
of
the
mussels.
The
mussels
in
white
wine
broth
might
have
been
a
better
choice.
For
dessert,
I
had
a
slice
of
rich,
heavy
chocolate
cake.
My
friend
chose
Carpenter’s
very
own
delicious
almond
pound
cake.
The
owner’s
homemade
offering
was
just
what
any
comparable
café
strives
to
perfect:
an
unpretentious
dessert
that
sends
the
customer
out
the
door
on
a
satisfied
high.
OTHER
MENU
HIGHLIGHTS
include
a
delicious
Serbian
Gibanica
(baked
layers
of
phyllo
and
feta
cheese),
Mama
Alicja’s
pierogi
and
a
spicy
crawfish
sandwich
served
on
a
baguette.
Breakfast
is
served
on
selected
weekdays,
and
all
day
Saturday
and
Sunday.
The
atmosphere
at
W
Domku
is
studied
casual.
The
music
is
soothing
and
eclectic,
ranging
from
soft
bossa
nova
to
muffled
opera.
A
perfectionist’s
eye
has
carefully
arranged
a
collection
of
culled
artifacts
like
teapots
and
inexpensive
China.
And
there’s
a
pool
table
in
the
spotlessly
clean
back
game
room.
Smoking
is
permitted,
but
few
patrons
lit
up
on
a
recent
visit.
While
it’s
true
that
W
Domku
is
gaining
a
reputation
as
a
Petworth
hotspot,
the
few
times
I’ve
been
there,
I
noticed
that
many
longtime
locals
who
curiously
peep
through
the
café’s
plate
glass
windows
as
they
walk
past,
seldom
come
in
to
nibble
the
gravlax
or
sip
the
Georgian
wine.
But
that
seems
to
be
the
way
of
changing
neighborhoods.