Aug 05, 2005  |  By: PATRICK FOLLIARD  | COMMENTS     

IT’S EARLY EVENING, and from the outside, W Domku looks more like a trendy second-hand furniture shop than a bar and café. Nestled between worn facades on a commercial block in Petworth, in Northwest D.C., the converted storefront is crammed with groupings of mismatched furniture. Through the window, it appears customers are testing out the mid-century low couches and mod dinette sets.

Once inside the airy, high-ceiling space, it’s clear that the far-off counter is a bar and the sparse crowd is actually settling in for drinks or, maybe, awaiting friends for dinner. As the evening passes, the Old World crystal chandeliers dim and the café fills.

W Domku (which means “in the little house” in Polish) is a new meeting place in a changing neighborhood. Kera Carpenter, a former Peace Corps volunteer in Poland, opened it six months ago. The café features a mélange of Eastern European and Scandinavian cuisine.

Drinkers may want to begin with a chilled shot of house-infused aquavit. The clear Vodka-tasting liquor comes in a selection of flavors, including tangerine, red chili pepper and caraway. The daring might try a flight of three flavors available for $16.

THE CAFÉ MENU features everything from light fare to the makings of a three-course meal. With each dish, careful attention is paid to detail and presentation.

Varied starters include a bowl of traditional, thick beet soup, Cognac and pistachio paté served with farm rye bread, and delicious smoked Baltic sprats in oil and rye crisp bread.

As an entrée, I chose beef tenderloin with tomato hollandaise sauce. Tasty and very tender, the beef was served with fingerling potatoes, French beans, tomato, onion confit, and parsley. At around $17, it’s one of the most expensive dishes on the menu.

My dining partner selected the mussels in aquavit and cream. She was pleased with the shellfish — served fresh and generously in a large white, ceramic bowl — but a bit overwhelmed by the sauce, which overwhelmed the taste of the mussels. The mussels in white wine broth might have been a better choice.

For dessert, I had a slice of rich, heavy chocolate cake. My friend chose Carpenter’s very own delicious almond pound cake. The owner’s homemade offering was just what any comparable café strives to perfect: an unpretentious dessert that sends the customer out the door on a satisfied high.

OTHER MENU HIGHLIGHTS include a delicious Serbian Gibanica (baked layers of phyllo and feta cheese), Mama Alicja’s pierogi and a spicy crawfish sandwich served on a baguette.

Breakfast is served on selected weekdays, and all day Saturday and Sunday.

The atmosphere at W Domku is studied casual. The music is soothing and eclectic, ranging from soft bossa nova to muffled opera. A perfectionist’s eye has carefully arranged a collection of culled artifacts like teapots and inexpensive China. And there’s a pool table in the spotlessly clean back game room.

Smoking is permitted, but few patrons lit up on a recent visit.

While it’s true that W Domku is gaining a reputation as a Petworth hotspot, the few times I’ve been there, I noticed that many longtime locals who curiously peep through the café’s plate glass windows as they walk past, seldom come in to nibble the gravlax or sip the Georgian wine.

But that seems to be the way of changing neighborhoods.