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MELISSA GILMORE
Wednesday, April 19, 2006
The simple purple awning does little to distinguish Grapeseed from the other restaurants on Cordell Avenue in the heart of Bethesda, Md. However, after taking a few bites of one of the dishes here, it’s easy to see how this restaurant overshadows its many competitors.
Grapeseed was established six years ago by executive chef Jeff Heineman, who studied at L’Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda and previously worked at D.C. favorites Kinkead’s and Cashion’s Eat Place.
Before Grapeseed, he went in with a couple of friends to open Roadside Grill in Arlington, Va. With a desire to create something more than burgers and wings, he sold his share and launched Grapeseed.
When my friend and I arrived for our 6 p.m. reservation on a Tuesday evening, there were only two other parties seated and a couple of people at the bar. The décor is simple with a few wine bottles and vintage posters displayed on the walls.
WHILE THE RESTAURANT was sparsely filled, we waited about five minutes before our waiter came to the table. He did not introduce himself and simply placed the menus on the table and walked away. I was not thrilled by the chilly reception, but was intrigued by the offerings—Hawaiian style ahi poke, grilled napini and spice-crusted day boat scallops, to name a few.
When our waiter returned, he was curt as he pointed to the chef’s specials. My friend asked him to provide some more details about how the fricassee of wild mushrooms was prepared. He was obviously knowledgeable about the food and politely described the dish thoroughly. We ordered that appetizer and the stuffed piquillo pepper with goat cheese.
Each appetizer, entrée and dessert at Grapeseed is paired with the wine that inspired it. The wine pairings are available as tastes (about half a glass) or glasses. I chose a taste of the Quivira Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc that was paired with the stuffed pepper appetizer to begin my meal.
A bite of the pepper, goat cheese and tomato sauce followed by a sip of wine makes it easy to immediately taste the smooth, buttery elements. The wine pairing was a flawless choice. As the mushroom dish was very meaty, I assume that it goes quite well with its Chianti pairing. Each appetizer portion was large enough to fully taste and enjoy the item without feeling too full for the entrée.
The menu’s lone vegetarian option, the Moroccan vegetable tart, was a good main course. The golden raisins neutralized most of the bitterness of the whipped carrots that served as the foundation for the tart. The smooth taste of the Di Majo Norante Sangiovese blended all of the flavors into a satisfying combination.
FOR DESSERT, MY friend and I abandoned the chef’s recommended pairings in favor of selections from the "Bubbly" part of the wine menu. The sparkling wines were a bit sharp for the tempura roasted banana and chocolate marquis, but still a lovely finish to the meal.
The quality and presentation of the dishes is above par for a casual dining environment in the D.C. area — making up for the lack of ambiance and less-than-impressive service.
Appetizers range from $5.50 to $15; entrees range from $22 to $32. Grapeseed is only open for dinner starting at 5:00 p.m. daily.
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