Jan 19, 2007  |  By: MELISSA GILMORE  | COMMENTS     

The flat-screen TV display at street level outside of the new Adams Morgan eatery Yazuzu displays a menu and pictures of Middle Eastern dishes, giving visitors their first clue that this café isn’t just another quick stop for bar crawlers.

Scarlet walls highlighted with arcs of white make this 20-seat café look like a set from “2001: A Space Odyssey.” Designed by New York architect Michel Abboud, the plane-themed décor presents an edgy look not usually found in the casual dining spots in D.C. My friend joining me for dinner on a recent evening commented, “This place belongs in New York or London.”

Lebanese restaurateur Maher Chebaro has developed more than a dozen restaurants from Beirut to Chicago. Yazuzu opened late last year, and with executive chef Tutu Mihrete, Chebaro has created a Middle Eastern restaurant that serves comfort food cafeteria style at reasonable prices. Mihrete told the Blade, “We are trying to hit the middle ground — healthy, tasty food that is affordable.”

The meaning behind Yazuzu is as comforting as the restaurant’s concept. Mihrete said that Zuzu is a nickname for a young girl. Put “Ya” as a prefix to Zuzu and you get something that roughly translates to Zuzu’s Place.

The restaurant’s hours (they’re open until 4 a.m. on weekends) give the clubbing crowd one more option for feeding their alcohol-induced munchies, but as it opens at 11 a.m. daily (except Mondays when closed all day), it also provides a place for families and shoppers to stop by, as well.

IN KEEPING WITH THE in-flight concept, meals are served in airplane-style trays, or something that could be a remnant from a junior high school cafeteria — separate compartments for the plastic cutlery, main dish and sides. And just like a trans-Atlantic flight, knives, forks and even the pita come in single-serving packs.

Luckily for diners, there are no cramped plane seats here. A single white table runs nearly the length of the restaurant with a bench on one side and white cubed stools on the other.

Just like the décor, the menu is organized simply, but offers a variety of dishes. The combinations offer the best value and give diners the opportunity to try more dishes. The zuzu1: a choice of five sides for $8.50; zuzu2: a choice of sandwich and two sides for $7.50; or zuzu3: a choice of main and four sides for $12.50.

On a recent visit, my friend and I decided to indulge in zuzu3. He had the pomegranate glazed beef short ribs. I went with the chicken tagine with green olives and preserved lemons. Choosing four sides from the list that runs more than 20 could be a daunting task, but luckily, the staff is ready to make suggestions and answer questions about the dishes.

In addition to the usual Lebanese suspects — hummus, baba ghanoush and tabouli — the dips and salads include some standouts. The mechouia, roasted vegetables with Tunisian twabil, has a gentle kick, and I could have snacked on the minted cucumber yogurt for hours. The braised dandelion was interesting, but may be too strong for some palettes.

Those looking for a quick bite to eat in a hip setting — before, during or after partaking in Adams Morgan’s other delights — will do well to stroll a block or two south of the neighborhood’s main attractions.