Aug 29, 2008  |  By: AMY CAVANAUGH  | COMMENTS     

Though visitors to New England often hit the beaches in the summer and check out colorful foliage in the fall, an autumn trip to the seaside gives you a chance to check out more than just the beach while enjoying a big perk — smaller crowds.

As the largest of the New England states, Maine has 3,478 miles of coastline — that means scores of tiny seaside towns to visit. Though I’ve visited Maine every summer for years, I had never been to Portland, the largest city, and I hadn’t been to Ogunquit in almost 10 years. Figuring it was high time to do so, I rounded up a Maine-based friend and set off on a gay-themed tour of the two towns. You can fly right into Portland from BWI, and Ogunquit is about 30-40 minutes away.

Portland is a perfect city to spend a lazy afternoon — streets are packed with little stores, coffee shops, and most importantly, restaurants, as the city has been making a name for itself as a foodie destination.

Start by sampling local seafood at the Grill Room, headed by chef and owner Harding Lee Smith. The scallops topped with bacon-truffle vinaigrette are cooked perfectly and are a nice twist on the classic bacon-wrapped scallop. The tuna tartare is mixed with pine nuts and capers and served with crispy bread. The highlight is the wood-grilled meats and fish that can be ordered a la carte — the salmon is very simple, with only a butter sauce to accompany it, but delicious. The Grill Room is located at 84 Exchange St. For more information, visit www.thefrontroomrestaurant.com/grillroom.

The tiny, bustling Duck Fat is worth the hype it’s been getting — the menu consists of panini (like the fresh vegetable “ratatouille,” filled with mozzarella, zucchini, eggplant, red pepper, tomato and basil pesto), beignets, soup and churros, but the real draw is the divine Belgian fries, which are cooked in duck fat and served with a dipping sauce. The consistency is the right balance between crispy and soft, and the slightly spicy Thai chili mayo is a nice accompaniment. Also worth trying is the homemade root beer, which is unlike anything you can get out of a can. Duck Fat is located at 43 Middle St. For more information: www.duckfat.com.

Almost directly across the street from Duck Fat is Rabelais Books, which only sells tomes that deal with food and wine. Many of the books are quirky, and it’s easy to lose an hour amidst titles ranging from “Wild Foods of Britain” to “A History of Champagne, with notes on the other sparkling wines of France.” Rabelais is located at 86 Middle St. For more information, visit www.rabelaisbooks.com.

When you’re done eating your way through downtown Portland, head to the Portland Museum of Art, 7 Congress Square, which is featuring “Georgia O’Keeffe and the Camera: The Art of Identity” through Sept. 7. The exhibit offers insight into O’Keeffe’s life through the lens of Ansel Adams, Alfred Stieglitz and other photographers who knew the painter and her Southwest home well. Following this exhibit is “Landscapes from the Age of Impressionism,” which features works on loan from the Brooklyn Museum. The Portland Museum also has a great collection of work by local artists, along with other artists who depicted Maine scenes, so it’s an opportunity to view the area through an artistic lens. For more information, visit www.portlandmuseum.org.

The nightlife scene in Portland is diverse, with options for everyone. Women head to Styxx, 3 Spring St., on Thursdays (free) and Saturdays ($5 cover) when DJs spin hip-hop and Styxx has a dance floor and pool tables in back. There’s also the Flask Lounge and the Snug Pub, which are gay friendly. For a non-bar gay experience, head to the North Star Music Café, 225 Congress Street, which has cozy couches and tables for working, as well as live music performances and weekly tango lessons.

Heading south of Portland, Ogunquit is a small gay mecca, with a slew of gay-owned restaurants, galleries and shops, and a pretty beach. Ogunquit is a terrific destination for the traveler who likes to balance going to the beach with visiting galleries and shopping.

A gallery walk down Shore Road is an easy afternoon activity. Start at the Ogunquit Museum of Art, located right on the water, which features works by a number of renowned artists, including Edward Hopper and Roy Lichtenstein. Ogunquit was the site of an artist colony in the late 19th century, and the museum, which opened in 1952, incorporates ...